‘No shortcuts’ at new Thai restaurant Bangkok by the Bay
April 11, 2025
BERKELEYSIDE — This story is part of the Discovered in Berkeley series featuring local businesses.
When Riva Cucina in West Berkeley closed last March, local foodies wondered what would happen to the picturesque space, nestled among the public art and organic gardens at Wareham Development’s Aquatic Park Research Campus. They didn’t have to wait long to find out.
A late entry to last year’s spate of Thai restaurant openings, Bangkok by the Bay debuted in late October 2024. The restaurant, which highlights authentic Thai street food and domestic delicacies in elevated environs, came together in a matter of months. But for owners Sung Makawatsakul and Nantika Julakasilp, the project has been decades in the making.
Makawatsakul and Julakasilp, both Thai natives who grew up in Bangkok, met on this side of the pond over 20 years ago when they were working front of house at Soi 4 Bangkok Eatery in Oakland. And they had more in common: both came to the Bay Area to study at Golden Gate University in San Francisco, Makawatsakul for her MBA and Julakasilp for integrated marketing and communications.
It was at Soi 4 that Makawatsakul and Julakasilp discovered their love for restaurants and hospitality. “Working there, I just felt like it’s so much fun meeting people and working with friends,” Julakasilp said.
Finding they thrived in the controlled chaos of a weekend dinner rush, the topic naturally arose: Why not make a go of it on their own? “We both had the passion and the experience,” Makawatsakul said. “And we kept talking about it. But it just never happened.”
The pair never lost touch, but after graduating and becoming a mother, Makawatsakul found herself with a lot less time on her hands. In between shuttling kids to school and soccer practice, she supported her husband’s prospering IT business. Julakasilp also became a mother, and joined Cathay Pacific, Hong Kong’s flag air carrier, as a flight attendant.
A dozen or so years after Soi 4, and one global pandemic later, the conditions started to seem right. Their kids were older, more independent. Julakasilp had left the airline and returned to restaurants, managing several establishments in Walnut Creek and San Francisco. And Makawatsakul had picked up a culinary school diploma along the way. The pair began searching for an opportunity in the East Bay. Julakasilp would head the front of the house, while Makawatsakul would be responsible for all things kitchen.
Riva Cucina’s decision to say farewell after 17 years presented the perfect opportunity. “We loved the brick, the wood beams, the industrial style of the building,” Julakasilp said of the Wareham Development-owned space at 800 Heinz St., next to the Aquatic Park childcare center. “We wanted to provide a complete dining experience — delicious food and drinks, a warm ambiance, and a welcoming space to enjoy with family and friends… And we felt safe here.”
With a lease signed, the pair got to work immediately on the menu. They knew they wanted to feature lesser-known dishes alongside precisely executed favorites. They were also adamant that no shortcuts be taken.
When people think of Thai food, what tends to come to mind are fast, fiery foods like pad thai or pad kee mow (“drunken noodles”), or maybe brightly flavored red or green curry. Those recipes come together in a matter of minutes. But there’s an entire world of slower dishes not often seen at American Thai restaurants.
Bangkok by the Bay’s short rib massaman curry features a bone-in beef short rib braised for 8-plus hours. The restaurant’s khua kling, a spicy, stir-fried Southern Thai dish with ground beef and curry paste similarly illustrates this no-compromises attitude. At most restaurants, Makawatsakul and Julakasilp said, curry paste — the fragrant, spicy, complex goodness that makes Thai curries so addictive — is almost always canned. But at Bangkok by the Bay, they make the paste from scratch.
If there’s one dish that has really taken off, it’s their sakoo hed, a mushroom, radish and crushed peanut-filled dumpling enveloped in a translucent tapioca wrapper. Substituting the traditional pork stuffing with a fresh oyster mushroom filling, the light, vegan appetizer has caught on especially among Berkeley’s large herbivore community. The menu features a variety of vegan and gluten-free options.
Creative cocktails complement the food, such as the bang na, a refreshing concoction of gin, Thai basil, passion fruit, elderflower and fresh lime juice that’s shaken and served up.
Beyond the food, Bangkok by the Bay’s space is designed to bring people together, whether it’s for a private event in the dining area or a weeknight dinner on the outdoor patio. Judith Wetterer, Wareham’s director of community relations, said her company has hosted events at Bangkok by the Bay and used them for catering, too.
“Wareham and our tenants love working with Sung and Nantika on catering intimate or large events,” she said.
As Songkran, the Thai New Year, approaches, Makawatsakul and Julakasilp look forward to sharing their culture with the community. While there won’t be any traditional water gun fights at Bangkok on the Bay on April 13, a special menu will be on offer.
“It’s always the hottest time of the year in April in Thailand, so people tend to eat something light and refreshing,” Makawatsakul said. Regardless of how the weather behaves here, locals are invited to come celebrate with an authentic Thai New Year meal at Bangkok by the Bay, Makawatsakul and Julakasilp said. (“For planning purposes, reservations are always appreciated,” they added.)
WHAT NEXT
- Enjoy a complimentary young coconut ice cream with any main dish purchase at Bangkok by the Bay (April 11-18 with a mention of this article) or celebrate the holiday at more than a dozen Thai restaurants in Berkeley, including other newcomers like Tanzie’s Cafe, Rose la Moon and Farmhouse Kitchen Thai Cuisine.
- Celebrate the Thai new year with traditional Thai music, food, dancing and a raffle at Wat Mongkolratanaram, Berkeley’s Thai Temple (1911 Russell St.) 10 a.m.-2 p.m. on Sunday, April 13.
- Visit the Discovered in Berkeley Stories page to find more articles about inspirational local businesses.
